Day 1
It was dark and quiet when I got up at 5am. Fifteen minutes
later I was leaving the house to walk to the bus stand, accompanied by one of
the night guards on our compound. My colleague, Stanslaus, was already there
waiting for me. Our journey would require two buses, as the bus that goes all
the way to our destination doesn’t run every day, and today was one of those
days when it wouldn’t, so we had tickets for a bus that would take us to Njombe,
a regional town about a 4.5 hour ride away, where we would then change to
continue the journey to Ludewa, which takes about another 4.5 hours.
Things did not bode well when I found myself sitting next to
a man who’s breath seemed to smell slightly of alcohol, who exclaimed over
sitting next to a ‘white’ (as he described me) and who had a very loud voice.
Thankfully he slept for some of the journey and later he disappeared (when I
was dozing) and was replaced by a young lady with a cute one-year-old. In
contrast to the situation inside the bus (which also included very unwholesome
music videos), the environment outside the bus was beautiful, with the morning
mist lying low over the fields like a soft fleecy blanket. As the sun rose
everything took on a warm golden edge. Despite the early hour, children were
already walking to school (this would be from about 6.30am onwards). When I was
visiting friends over the weekend, the husband said that he leaves as early as
5.30am each day with his daughter, accompanying her along the road until she meets
other students and they can continue the rest of the 1.5 hour walk to secondary
school together.
Another feature of bus travel is sales merchants. So it was
no surprise when someone got on the bus, stood in the aisle and gave his sales
pitch, touting his wares of soap, toothpaste and various other items that are apparently
able to cure all kinds of ailments, as we continued to motor along.
Our second bus set off at an alarming rate, slowing down
fractionally when passengers complained. It turned out that the lights on the
bus didn’t work and he wanted to make sure he arrived at the bus’s final
destination before dark. We were thankful to arrive safely in Ludewa, stretch
our legs with a short walk to the market (I wanted some bananas), buy 12 six-packs
of bottled water ready for the three-day workshop ahead of us, and get into the
car that was waiting for us for the last stage of the journey. This is a 32km
(20 mile) drive down a steep mountain road, which takes about 1¼ hours – the slow
pace being not so much due to the quality of the road (which has been widened
and improved since my last trip, though it’s still a dirt road) but due to the
steep descent and tight corners.
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| My room at the guest house |
At some point the lake suddenly came into view, shimmering
in the late-afternoon light. The mountains all around us reminded me of a big
bath towel dropped on the floor, with peaks and dips and wrinkles. They look
pretty inhabitable, but every now and then I’d spot a house or we’d pass
through a village or you’d see a section that had been cultivated (probably
with cassava). And finally we reached the lake itself. We are staying in the
same guesthouse we stayed in last time we came to do a seminar – maybe it’s the
only guest house here. I’m in the same room and there is the same problem of
little ants crawling around on the floor and an en-suite bathroom that doesn’t
have a light. Bathroom is really too grand a word for the little room with a
long drop toilet and a bucket of water with a jug to flush it. And there is the
obligatory pair of flip-flops at the door to wear when you enter, as this ‘bathroom’
also serves as a place to have a bucket bath, leaving the floor wet, so you
need flip-flops to go in and out if you want to keep your feet clean and dry!
From my room I can hear the sound of the TV in the little
shop next door, run by the guest house owner, the voices of people talking outside
and children playing (despite being 9.30pm), the sound of a motorbike (the main
form of transport here), the classic African night-sound of the cicadas and
occasionally I can also hear the sound of a wave breaking on the beach beyond
some of the village buildings. I’ve had a quiet evening in my room, after going
for a short swim. I had been directed to the section of beach where the women
bathe and as I swam I watched the red ball of sun drop below the horizon,
behind the blue mountains of Malawi, leaving the sky a picture of pink-orange
and turquoise and all shades in between that I can’t begin to describe, with a
thin sliver of silver moon hanging above it all. How awesome are the works of
God’s hands, how incredible this world that he spoke into being.
Day 2
I slept pretty well, protected from the mosquitos by a
capacious net. We headed up to the Catholic church buildings that we would use
for the workshop, arriving to find a lady we had met the previous evening in
Ludewa already busy sweeping. She had been at a meeting until 1am in Ludewa the
night before! Due to the nature of travel here, with people travelling by a
passenger boat from the lakeside villages, I learned that the church arrange
their leadership meetings to take place in the evening, after the boat will
have arrived and people can get up the mountain to the town, and go on into the
night so that they can finish in time for people to catch the next morning’s
boat to return home, all helping to keep costs down.
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| Planning pictures of key biblical events |
An hour and a half after people had been told the workshop
would start, only five people (mostly catechists in the Catholic church) were there.
Each was served a plate of boiled potatoes accompanied by a steaming mug of
sweet tea for their breakfast. They patiently waited, attempting to read the
book of Ruth in their Kisi language in the meantime until I led them in a Bible
challenge. I gave them a set of pictures of key biblical events, which they had
to put in order. I was sad to discover how low their level of biblical literacy
was – I’ve done that same exercise in many places but their attempt was one of the
poorest I have seen. I then used the pictures
to talk them through the big story of the Bible, trying to show how it is one
story of God’s relationship with man and how the Old Testament points us to
Jesus. Spending an hour or so on this can do nothing more than hopefully give
them a desire to learn more. As we continue through the workshop, teaching them
how to prepare and lead simple Bible studies, I’ll be referring back to what we
did in order to emphasise how knowing the whole Bible’s story can help us in
understanding any one part of the Bible.
When it looked like no-one else would be coming, we
officially started the workshop. After introductions, we did a Bible study on
Luke 24:13-27, talked about the benefits of a Bible study and then got stuck
into learning to read the Kisi language. Tomorrow we’ll continue with how to
prepare and lead simple Bible studies, using both the Kisi and Swahili
Scriptures. At one o’clock the church bell began to ring, and I was startled as
nearly the whole group stood and began to pray! They were obviously praying a
set prayer for the time of day – it felt like being in a monastery, with set
times of prayer. In fact, this place has something of the feel of an old
European monastery – I believe it was founded by a padre from Europe and most
of the buildings are red brick with tiled roofs.
By lunchtime there were nine participants, all bar one from the
same denomination, and only two had arrived with Bibles. Disappointing. I’m sure there are many reasons,
but I think one of them may be a lack of unity and acceptance between denominations
and another may be communication. The latter isn’t easy here! As far as phone
calls are concerned, networks don’t work until the sun has risen high enough to
reach into the shadow of the mountains and charge up the solar-powered phone
towers. And even then, only certain networks work and in certain places.
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| Lupingu beach |
After the workshop was over we tried to visit the pastors of
the churches that hadn’t sent anyone. We succeeded to meet one but failed to
find the others. There was still time for a swim when we got back, so off I
went again, waiting until the sun had dropped below the horizon before getting
out of the water, despite the fact that I was getting cold, because the sunset
was just too beautiful to miss. On my walk back to the guest house I was
greeted from afar by a lady I’d met the previous day when I went swimming, so I
went over to chat with her and the lady braiding her hair (well, ‘twisting’
would be a better description) – it will take her some time to do the whole
head.
While eating my tea in my room, I heard a scuttling around
the water bottles. A large cockroach emerged. It did not live long – flip-flops
are a great weapon against all unwanted crawling bugs! I hardly ever see such
large cockroaches in Mbeya – it seems that the warmer the environment the
bigger the bugs, and Mbeya is generally not very hot, unlike this area by Lake
Nyasa, though at this time of year it’s cool even here. A sharp headache has
just started – did I breathe in too much of the bug spray I used to try and
conquer the ant invasion?!
Day 3
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Breakfast supplies - the yellow bucket is full of potatoes and the flasks full of tea. |
Today was much the same. I found it hard to read the faces
of the workshop participants to get a sense of what they were thinking, but
they seemed to be taking in what we were saying and responding well when asked
questions. A lady who had been helping with organising the workshop
(communicating with people, organising the food etc) invited us to her home
after we had finished. I assumed this was just to be a little visit, but it
turned out she wanted to serve us food, so we sat out in the shade for some
time waiting for the food to be ready. I would like to say I enjoyed just
sitting and being, but I didn’t, I was restless. I talked a little with my
colleague and the lady (who came and went as she supervised the meal
preparation), but otherwise tried to battle impatience. I wanted to be moving,
doing something, swimming or going somewhere. My legs were itching to be
exercised and my mind wanted stimulation. I felt very un-Tanzanian! And I felt
guilty for not accepting the situation and appreciating her hospitality. My
tummy still felt full from lunch, despite being around 6pm by the time we ate,
but I was able to eat a respectable amount of the chicken and rice set before
us. Our host had to disappear before she’d eaten more than a couple of
mouthfuls, as a guest had arrived, a fellow ‘diwani’. Diwani seem to be
representatives of the people, taking local issues to a higher level in the
government, and our host was a diwani voted in by the local women to be their
voice.
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Signposts have recently popped up all over Tanzania, such that even in this rural village the road now has it's own signpost. |
There didn’t seem to be any point in sitting around, so once
we’d eaten our fill we said our goodbyes and headed off. We climbed up the
church (where we were holding the workshop), before dropping down the other
side, accompanied by a crowd of children all vying to walk as close to the ‘mzungu’
(white foreigner) as possible. I know I should be used to this by now and able
to accept that it’s exciting for them because they hardly ever see any
non-Tanzanians, but much as I try to shake off the stress it causes me, I can’t.
I just want to run away and hide or scream at them to leave me alone, but
instead I try to smile as my colleague laughs at how the children are enjoying
themselves.
Thankfully there was still time to go for a swim and by the
time I had changed the children had gone. The sun had already set, and the
remaining golden light in the sky reflected off the water such that I felt as
if I was swimming in a sea of liquid gold. I stayed until the sky had changed
colour and started to fade and the shore was becoming harder to see, before
slowly walking back along the shore and returning to the guesthouse.
Day 4
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Stanslaus demonstrates teaching someone to read their language. |
Last day of the workshop. Nothing special to report. There was
some positive feedback at the end, with participants saying that they had
learned more about the Bible that will help them in turn to teach others. They
are obviously looking forward to having the Jesus Film in their language.
Translation of the script has already taken place and it is hoped the recording
will happen in early October. Two guys wanted me to put the Kisi audio
Scriptures on their phones (so far Jonah, Ruth and Luke are available), so they
patiently waited as I transferred the files via Bluetooth, and then another participant
ran off to find his flash drive so that I could give him the Kisi audio plus the
Swahili audio New Testament and some Swahili film resources.
As I said goodbye to the guesthouse owner, he was asking how
I had trained for the job I was doing. I told him about my Masters in Bible and
Mission, and he said his son had a Masters in Education but no employment is
available so he lives there in the village and drives a motorbike (for carrying
passengers). How sad that this young man should have achieved that level of
education, probably at great cost to his father, but not be able to use his
training. I have heard this kind of story before. Education is highly valued,
parents will do their utmost to get their children through school and even
university, but professional jobs are few and far between and many of these
students end up doing something like that young man.
The same car that drove us down the mountain was ready and
waiting to take us back up the mountain, and I could feel the air getting
cooler the higher we got. We went first to the bus station to get our tickets
for the next day and then to a guesthouse, which was deserted. A piece of paper
stuck on the door gave the phone number of the receptionist, so we called and a
few minutes later she turned up and we got our rooms – spacious and pleasant
with a shower and, I discovered, a light that at night was blue (but white
during the daytime), presumably so as not to wake one up too much!
Day 5
The bus set off promptly at 6am. The bumpy dirt road shook
us around like lottery balls and every bit of the bus rattled, which coupled
with the occasional person talking very loudly on their phones, did not make
for a quiet ride! There was occasional reprieve from the rattles though, as the
road is being worked on and some sections already have a concrete surface. At
one point we passed them putting digger loads of cement into a shallow iron
framework that covered the road and being smoothed down by people with shovels.
It was cold, and didn’t get any warmer as the skies were
heavy with clouds and it rained lightly until we arrived in Njombe. I got a bag
of hot chips at the Njombe bus stand, delivered through the bus window, before
we set off again. With various other stops and slow traffic on a hill due to an
accident, we arrived late in Mbeya. I was glad to stretch my legs on the short
walk home after fourteen hours on the bus. Much as I enjoy these teaching
trips, it’s always good to get home. And this time was especially exciting, as
in my absence a new toilet had been put into my bathroom and the big cracks in
my wall had been filled in. I thank God for his protection, for the privilege
of serving here and for the blessing of a comfy home to return to and a fab
housemate to share it with.